What tools do I need for the City & Guilds Level 3 Gem Setting Diploma?

You will need a range of hand tools including a bench peg, gravers (e.g., square, round, onglette), setting burs (e.g., hart bur, bud bur), a pusher, a burnisher, a hammer, and a mallet. You'll also need a magnifying visor or loupe, callipers, dividers, and a sharpening stone for gravers. Many colleges provide these, but you may want to invest in your own set for practice at home.

How long does it take to complete the Level 3 Diploma in Gem Setting?

Typically, the diploma takes one academic year (9-12 months) of full-time study, or up to two years part-time. The course includes around 300-400 guided learning hours, plus additional practice time. You will complete a series of practical assignments and a final project that demonstrates your competence in multiple setting techniques.

Can I set any gemstone using the techniques taught in this diploma?

The diploma covers techniques suitable for most common gemstones, including diamonds, sapphires, rubies, emeralds, and semi-precious stones. However, very soft or fragile stones (e.g., opal, pearl, tanzanite) require special care and may need alternative settings like bezel or adhesive mounts. The course teaches you to assess each stone's properties and choose the appropriate method.

What is the difference between a claw setting and a bezel setting?

A claw setting uses metal prongs (claws) that grip the stone's girdle, allowing maximum light exposure for brilliance. A bezel setting surrounds the stone with a metal rim, offering more protection but reducing light entry. Bezel settings are often used for softer stones or for a sleek, modern look. In the diploma, you will learn both techniques and when to use each.

How do I avoid damaging gemstones during setting?

To avoid damage, always use the correct bur size for the stone's diameter and depth. Apply even, gentle pressure when cutting seats and avoid forcing the stone. Use a lubricant like oil or wax on burs to reduce heat and friction. Check for pre-existing inclusions and orient the stone so that cleavage planes are not under stress. Finally, never use excessive force when tightening claws or burnishing.

What career opportunities are available after completing this diploma?

Graduates can work as gem setters in jewellery manufacturing companies, repair workshops, or as self-employed bench jewellers. You may specialise in high-end diamond setting, antique restoration, or custom design. With experience, you can progress to supervisory roles, teaching, or further qualifications like the Level 4 Diploma in Advanced Gem Setting or a degree in jewellery design.

Maintain and prepare the workshop for work with precious metal

CITY AND GUILDS OF LONDON INSTITUTE

vocational

This element focuses on the critical role of workshop maintenance and preparation in ensuring safe, efficient, and high-quality work with precious metals in gem setting. Learners develop the ability to systematically inspect, clean, and organise tools and workspaces, while understanding how these practices directly prevent contamination, damage to valuable materials, and workplace accidents.

Learning Outcomes

Assessment Guidance

Key Skills

Key Terms

Assessment Criteria

Assessment criteria

City & Guilds Level 3 Diploma in Gem Setting

Topic Overview

The City & Guilds Level 3 Diploma in Gem Setting is an advanced vocational qualification designed for aspiring jewellery professionals who want to master the art of securely and aesthetically mounting gemstones into precious metal settings. This diploma covers a range of setting techniques, from basic claw settings to complex invisible and pave settings, ensuring you can handle diverse gemstone shapes and sizes. It is a key qualification for those aiming to work in high-end jewellery manufacturing, repair, or bespoke design, as it demonstrates a high level of precision, craftsmanship, and understanding of material properties.

Throughout the course, you will develop practical skills in marking out, preparing seats, and setting stones using hand tools and specialist equipment. You will also learn about the metallurgical characteristics of precious metals (gold, silver, platinum) and how they affect setting techniques, as well as the physical properties of gemstones (hardness, cleavage, brittleness) to avoid damage during setting. The diploma emphasises both speed and accuracy, preparing you for the demands of commercial workshops where quality and efficiency are paramount.

This qualification fits into the wider jewellery manufacturing and repair sector, providing a pathway to roles such as a setter, bench jeweller, or even a specialist in antique restoration. It also lays the foundation for further study, such as the Level 4 Diploma in Advanced Gem Setting or a degree in jewellery design. By the end of the diploma, you will be able to independently set a variety of stones in different mounts, troubleshoot common issues, and produce work that meets industry standards.

Key Concepts

Core ideas you must understand for this topic

→Claw setting: The most common method, using four or six prongs to hold a stone securely. You must learn to cut and shape claws evenly, seat the stone at the correct depth, and tighten claws without damaging the stone or leaving gaps.
→Pave setting: A technique where small stones are set close together, creating a continuous surface of gemstones. This requires precise drilling, burring, and bead-raising to form tiny claws that hold each stone, demanding excellent hand-eye coordination.
→Channel setting: Stones are set in a row between two metal walls, with no visible claws. You must cut a precise channel, seat stones tightly, and then push metal over the girdle to secure them, ensuring even spacing and alignment.
→Burnishing: A method used for soft stones or thin metal, where a polished tool is rubbed over the metal edge to push it over the stone's girdle. This requires careful control to avoid scratching the stone or distorting the setting.
→Stone selection and preparation: Understanding gemstone hardness (e.g., diamond 10, sapphire 9, opal 5.5-6.5) and cleavage planes is crucial to avoid breakage during setting. You must also check for pre-existing flaws and orient stones to minimise stress.

Learning Objectives

What you need to know and understand

Understand the importance of safe working practice within a workshop environment, Be able to take part in the maintenance and preparation of workshop areas

Assessment Criteria

Key criteria assessors look for in your portfolio

Award credit for demonstrating the correct procedure for inspecting, cleaning, and lubricating hand tools such as pliers, files, and burnishers, specifically referencing prevention of metal transfer and surface damage to precious metals.
Award credit for explaining how to maintain and prepare the bench area, including safe storage of precious metal off-cuts, proper disposal of filings and lemel, and segregation of different metal types to avoid contamination.
Award credit for identifying and reporting hazards associated with workshop equipment (e.g., polishing motors, gas torches) and for describing the correct use and maintenance of personal protective equipment (PPE) such as safety glasses, aprons, and finger guards.
Award credit for actively participating in workshop cleaning routines, including the safe handling and storage of flammable materials like polishing compounds and solvents, in line with COSHH regulations.

Assessment Guidance

Guidance for achieving higher grades

💡When describing workshop preparation, always link your actions to specific safety regulations and workplace policies, such as the Control of Substances Hazardous to Health (COSHH) or the Personal Protective Equipment at Work Regulations, to demonstrate underpinning knowledge.
💡In practical assessments, narrate your thought process when checking tools and equipment; assessors look for evidence that you are actively evaluating condition and functionality, not just going through motions.
💡Use technical terminology precisely—refer to 'lemel' for collected metal dust and 'bench skin' for the protective covering—to show professional competence.
💡When answering written questions on maintenance, structure your response to cover inspection, cleaning, lubrication, and storage, as this systematic approach reflects industry best practice.
💡Pay close attention to the finish of your setting. Examiners look for smooth, polished metal surfaces with no tool marks, scratches, or burrs. Use fine emery papers and polishing mops to achieve a mirror finish, as this demonstrates professionalism and attention to detail.
💡Practice setting stones in scrap metal before attempting your assessed pieces. This builds muscle memory and helps you gauge the correct pressure for different metals and stone sizes. Many students lose marks due to damaged stones or bent claws from lack of practice.
💡Read the assessment criteria carefully. Each task has specific requirements for stone placement, claw height, and symmetry. For example, in a claw setting, all claws must be of equal height and evenly spaced. Use dividers and callipers to measure and check your work against the criteria.

Common Mistakes

Common errors to avoid in your coursework

Assuming that maintenance is only about cleaning, and neglecting the calibration and condition-checking of precision measuring instruments such as vernier callipers and micrometres, leading to inaccuracies in stone setting.
Using the same cleaning cloths or brushes for different metal types, causing cross-contamination that can result in discolouration or poor solder flow.
Storing precious metal scrap carelessly, mixing filings of different carats or alloys, which complicates refining and increases material cost.
Overlooking the importance of adequate lighting and seating ergonomics, which can lead to eye strain or musculoskeletal injuries over prolonged setting work.
Misconception: 'All gemstones can be set using the same technique.' Correction: Different stones require different approaches. For example, opals are too soft for pave setting and can crack under pressure, while diamonds can withstand high forces but may chip if set too tightly against a sharp edge.
Misconception: 'The tighter the claws, the more secure the stone.' Correction: Over-tightening claws can stress the stone, causing fractures, especially in stones with cleavage (e.g., emerald). Claws should be snug but not forced, and the stone should sit evenly without rocking.
Misconception: 'You can skip marking out if you have a steady hand.' Correction: Precise marking out is essential for symmetry and alignment, especially in multi-stone settings. Even a 0.5mm error can ruin the appearance or cause stones to sit crookedly, leading to rejection in a commercial setting.

Frequently Asked Questions

Common questions students ask about this topic

Before You Start

Prior knowledge that will help with this topic

•City & Guilds Level 2 Diploma in Jewellery Manufacturing or equivalent experience, covering basic soldering, filing, and polishing skills.
•Understanding of precious metal properties (gold, silver, platinum) and their melting points, as setting often involves minor adjustments with heat.
•Basic knowledge of gemstone identification and hardness scales (Mohs scale) to avoid damaging stones during setting.

Key Terminology

Essential terms to know

Understand the importance of safe working practice within a workshop environment, Be able to take part in the maintenance and preparation of workshop areas

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Maintain and prepare the workshop for work with precious metal

Assessment criteria

Topic Overview

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Assessment Guidance

Common Mistakes

Frequently Asked Questions

Before You Start

Key Terminology

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