This unit covers the essential skills and knowledge required to safely and effectively perform permanent hair relaxing services. Learners must demonstrate
Topic Synopsis
This unit covers the essential skills and knowledge required to safely and effectively perform permanent hair relaxing services. Learners must demonstrate thorough preparation, including client consultation and hair analysis, skilled application techniques to achieve the desired straightening effect, and correct completion procedures to maintain hair integrity and client satisfaction.
Key Concepts & Core Principles
- Health and Safety: Understanding COSHH regulations, salon hygiene, and safe use of tools and chemicals to prevent accidents and infections.
- Client Consultation: Using questioning and listening skills to assess client needs, hair type, and scalp condition, and to manage expectations.
- Hair Cutting Techniques: Mastering basic cuts such as one-length, layering, and graduation, using correct angles and sectioning.
- Colouring Principles: Knowledge of the colour wheel, hydrogen peroxide strengths, and application methods for temporary, semi-permanent, and permanent colours.
- Styling and Finishing: Proficiency in blow-drying, setting, and using heated tools to create curls, waves, and smooth finishes.
Exam Tips & Revision Strategies
- Always conduct and document a thorough consultation and strand test; examiners will look for this first.
- Wear appropriate Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) for both yourself and the client, as per health and safety regulations.
- Follow the manufacturer’s instructions precisely; never rely on guesswork for timing or mixing ratios.
- Use a timer and check the hair’s straightening progress visually and physically every few minutes to avoid over-processing.
- In practical assessments, demonstrate meticulous timing management; use a timer and check strand processing every few minutes.
- Highlight your understanding of health and safety by detailing how you manage chemical exposure, PPE use, and workstation tidiness.
- For written/oral questions, be prepared to explain the chemical difference between thio relaxers and sodium hydroxide relaxers and their suitability for different hair types.
- When completing the service, focus on thorough rinsing and multiple shampoos with neutralizing shampoo to ensure no chemical remains; test with pH strips if needed.
Common Misconceptions & Mistakes to Avoid
- Skipping the strand test, leading to incorrect processing time and potential damage.
- Overlapping relaxer onto previously relaxed hair, causing breakage at the line of demarcation.
- Using too much tension when combing through the hair during smoothing, which can cause scalp irritation or hair snapping.
- Neutralising inadequately, leaving residual alkali that degrades the hair over time.
- Applying relaxer too close to the scalp or on irritated skin, risking chemical burns.
- Failing to base the scalp properly with a protective barrier, leading to chemical burns or irritation.
Examiner Marking Points
- Award credit for demonstrating a thorough client consultation covering medical history, previous chemical treatments, hair condition assessment, and desired outcome.
- Expect clear evidence of a strand test conducted at least 24 hours before the service to determine timing and product suitability.
- Require correct sectioning and application technique, avoiding overlap onto previously relaxed hair, with timing based on strand test results.
- Look for safe and precise neutralisation following manufacturer’s instructions, ensuring chemical pH balance is restored.
- Check for appropriate aftercare advice given to the client, including product recommendations and interval between services.
- Award credit for demonstrating a thorough consultation including completion of a client record card with details of hair history, contra-indications, and patch test results.
- Mark evidence of in-depth hair and scalp analysis using appropriate tools (e.g., porosity, elasticity, density tests) to correctly classify hair type and select appropriate relaxer formula.
- Award marks for accurate sectioning and sub-sectioning techniques ensuring even application without overlapping onto previously relaxed hair.